Preparing for the Riding Season

Understanding Fuel Issues

Back in my day, fuel came from dead dinosaurs, not corn.

Let's be honest: the fuels we use today are subpar. A couple of decades ago, someone decided it would be a good idea to create ethanol from corn as an additive. This additive dilutes gasoline while still allowing it to ignite when injected into your engine. Although this type of fuel may work well for modern vehicles like cars and trucks, it can wreak havoc on our powersports equipment. To understand why, we need to look at a couple of terms:

• Hygroscopic: This term refers to a substance's ability to absorb moisture from the air. Ethanol in fuel is hygroscopic. Fuels such as E10 or E85 readily attract and absorb moisture (water) from the air. So while you're sitting comfortably at home, the E85 fuel in your tank is trying to sabotage you. Over time, especially during the cold months, the ethanol continues to absorb water, leading to phase separation.

• Phase Separation: When ethanol absorbs enough water, it separates from the gasoline. Since water is heavier than gasoline, it sinks to the bottom of the tank.

  
  

Impacts of Ethanol on Powersports Equipment

Now that we understand how ethanol works, let's examine its impact on your fuel system during months of inactivity. Ethanol fuel can have several adverse effects, including:

1. Moisture Absorption: Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air. This can lead to phase separation in the fuel, causing poor engine performance and potential damage.

2. Corrosion: Ethanol can corrode metals (like aluminum, brass, and zinc) and rubber components in carburetors, leading to premature wear and failure.

3. Deposits and Clogging: Ethanol can dissolve old varnish and debris in the fuel system. This can clog small carburetor jets and passages, causing rough idling, stalling, or poor acceleration.

4. Lean Running Condition: Ethanol contains oxygen, which can make the air-fuel mixture leaner than intended. This can cause engines to run hotter, potentially leading to overheating or engine damage if not tuned properly.

5. Fuel Deterioration: Ethanol-blended fuels have a shorter shelf life because they absorb water and oxidize more quickly. This forms gum and varnish that can clog carburetors and fuel lines.

   
   

Gelling due to ethanol removing varnish

At this time of year, many machines come to us due to the effects of ethanol-based fuels sitting for long periods. These fuels should be used quickly, as they can start to degrade within one to three months. Keep in mind that degradation doesn't only occur in your tank; it happens throughout the entire fuel system, including fuel lines, rails, injectors, and carburetors.

Since alcohol is an excellent cleaner, ethanol starts to dissolve the natural varnish formed by gasoline during normal use. This varnish is particularly present in carburetors. When varnish comes off, it can become a sticky and gummy residue. This residue clogs jets, causing floats and needles to become stuck. When this happens, remember:

DO NOT TOSS YOUR FACTORY CARBURETOR OUT AND INSTALL A CHEAP CHINESE ONE.

Strategies for Avoiding Ethanol Issues

While I've shared the problems caused by ethanol, there are ways to minimize your ride's exposure to these issues. Here’s how you can protect your machine:

1. Opt for Non-Ethanol Fuel: This is the simplest solution. Spend the extra 30-60 cents per gallon for non-ethanol fuel, and your machine will thank you. Many places in Utah offer non-ethanol fuel; for example, most Maverik Adventure Stores have non-ethanol gas, often identified by a blue handle. Not sure where to find it? You can check here. For high-performance machines needing higher octane fuel, VP fuels has you covered.

   
   

2. Have a Plan for Using Ethanol Fuel: If you must use ethanol-based fuel, ensure you have a plan to use it all. Be mindful of time; as the end of the riding season approaches, run the ethanol fuel out and replace it with non-ethanol gas, if possible. Always fill up the tank entirely — less air exposure equals less moisture.

   
   

3. Winterize Your Machine: As the weather cools and you will not be using your machine anymore, winterize it. This process includes adding a fuel stabilizer, whether it’s ethanol or non-ethanol based. Make sure you top off the tank to reduce air exposure, which minimizes moisture buildup. Finally, run the engine so that the treated fuel circulates throughout the entire system, not just sitting in the tank.

   
   

Dealing with Existing Fuel Issues

Well... this was advice I needed last October. Now what?

If you experience issues like hard starts, your machine only running with the choke on, or the fuel smelling stale, don't get discouraged. These problems are common, especially with older carbureted machines. If your original carburetor is still in place, resist the urge to throw it away for a cheap fix. There’s a reason that carburetor is on your machine. If you think a $40 special from Amazon will fix your problem, think again.

Knowledge is power, and now you know how to combat these issues. If your machine isn't running correctly, give us a call or schedule an appointment to have it fixed.